Tuesday, August 31, 2010

0 KINGS OF PASTRY!

Gerard Mulot Pastry Box, watercolor, 9" x 11"
Pastry chefs and I have always seen eye to eye... They are the 'artistes' in the cuisine, with chocolate and sugar...
Of course they adored having their portraits on their own business cards. They really got my food art biz going.
When I received an invite to a screening of KINGS OF PASTRY I was thrilled. It's about the 3-day competition of carefully selected French pastry chefs, sixteen in fact, all vieing for the much coveted M.O.F. or Meilleur Ouvriers De France award in Lyon. As luck would have it, I went to Maine to paint and missed the screening, but they sent me the video and BOY OH BOY is it fun!
The Guardian said,
"I never saw so many men sobbing at once"
"A culinary HURT LOCKER"
You get to see top pastry artistes pushed to the limit, racing against time and each other to make their super, fragiles creations. You see top pastry judges of France (PH included!) tasting and grading the contender's art works (16 desserts) and their responses. Full of suspense...catastrophes beaucoup...even the judges are in tears.
If you love French pastry, you MUST see KINGS OF PASTRY
Pastry chefs of the highest order are required to make many confectionary sculptures... Usually made of sugar. These chocolate masterpieces were at the Salon du Chocolat last October. Now I have a better idea of the enormous effort that went into making them.
Oh the torture, oh the sleepless nights. I attended the Coupe du Monde de la Patisserie in Lyon in '94 - words can not describe the fabulousness of it all. If only I'd had my Canon back then. Last June I returned to Lyon for a macaron class. Instead I ate lunch at Paul Bocuse's Brasserie Le Nord. Very chaleureuse/warm indeed.. Very much in the old French tradition of quality and simplicity. Bien sur you know I had une salade... And then the very traditional cote d'agneau for my main.
Miam-miam When I asked for the l'addition they said I was an invitee/guest!?
How I wished I had ordered dessert...something on the order of this elaborate chocolate chapeau...
HATS OFF TO THE M.O.F. WINNERS
And go see the movie.

Monday, August 30, 2010

1 The Statue of Liberty

Have you been to the Statue of Liberty yet?
I went for the first time ever on Saturday...
'Attraversiamo',
as Liz says in EAT PRAY LOVE (EPL) meaning
'Let's cross over'
I'm always bla-bla-blaing about the Eiffel Tower so I thought it was time...
Get ready to land PBers!
Thar she is! YAHOO
Naturallement we check the map before taking a step further...
Ah the view...regarde!
trop Magnifique!
The everpresent gulls...
Await a few crumbs from my sandwich.
You'll take your own lunch PBers if yr smart.
Every language under the sun is heard...
Wunderbar!
I brought along my paintbox bien sur for a few quickie thumbnails...
Take my picture svp
Waiting and working - Lady Liberty gets no holidays...
Have you been?
Do tell all svp

So walk your country WALK PBers!

Friday, August 27, 2010

0 Tip Your Hat

Shall we tip our hats to the last days of summer?
I got a desperate plea from a PBer yesterday to PLEASE show anything, architecture, clothes, books anything but food.
The Brits do love their hats.
And their love of hats goes way back, even to this 1775 Lowestoft cane handle.
'Course you might have to go to Ascot to actually see someone wearing a hat in the UK. Here's that stunner again in the Underground.
Where else but in London do you see a plethora of...
Cocktail hats?
Even a decorative headband becomes a 'Hat' in the UK.
Butler & Wilson on Fulham road has been creating fantasy hats forever...
That hat again in Harvey Nichols - worth a second look non?
Naturallement, the French, who wouldn't be caught dead wearing a hat, think nothing of throwing some jambon on an assiette and calling it a chapeau.
Put a bow in your hair in Paris and it equals a hat.
A fantasy hat from Kensington Garden Palace...
You can always settle for a faux paper hat...
At the V&A...
I hope Maxim's will never lose their charmant chapeau rouge...
I rarely wear hats.
I do have a battered, ripped-up old straw hat I've wore this summer when out painting..
Do you wear hats?
Shall we all tip our hats to summer 2010?
I hope yours was a good one.
BON WEEK-END!

0 ICE CREAM PETITS FOURS - DARING BAKERS

dk-group-1
Although, at the beginning of each month, I promise myself to finish my Daring Bakers' challenge long before the deadline I always end up making it at the very last moment. I think that I'm having trouble dealing with the endless flow of time. Every Sunday I feel as if I have got thrown into a washing machine with the tumble dryer program on and I shake my head in disbelief everytime a new month starts. I feel like a hamster running round in a wheel...

The August 2010 Daring Bakers’ challenge was hosted by Elissa of "17 And Baking". For the first time, The Daring Bakers partnered with Sugar High Fridays for a co-event and Elissa was the gracious hostess of both. Using the theme of beurre noisette, or browned butter, Elissa chose to challenge Daring Bakers to make a pound cake to be used in either a "Baked Alaska" or in "Ice Cream Petit Fours". The sources for Elissa’s challenge were Gourmet Magazine and David Lebovitz’s “The Perfect Scoop”.

As I had never made "Petits Fours" or "Ice Cream Sandwiches" before, I decided upon making those cute little frozen cakes for my boyfriend's birthday. As we were only two to eat this dessert and since my freezer crammed with "junk" I thought it would be more judicious to cut the the quantities in half. Otherwise I followed the recipe to the letter, nonetheless I added my personal touch to the vanilla ice cream that I flavored with Chinese Five-Spice powder (a mix of powdered star anise, cloves, cinnamon, Sichuan pepper and fennel seeds) and dark rum.

Apart from having problems with the size of my freezer, the high temperatures (the ice cream started melting when I tried to coat the cakes with the cooled glaze - painful), my nerve-wracking hungry cats (who constantly kept walking around my legs and following my every movement as well as step while sitting at the other end of the room with their biiiiiiig psycho eyes) the making of those "Ice Cream Petit Fours" went quite smoothly.

We really liked those icy treats. The cake had a heavenly nutty taste thanks to the browned butter, the ice cream was divinely spicy and boozy and the dark chocolate glaze had a lot of character. All those elements blended very well together, yet I must say that I would have prefered to eat each of them separately (a ball ice cream with a slice of non-frozen cake, the whole drizzled with warm chocolate ganache). Somehow, the cake had less flavor when served frozen and that was a bit annoying as it was very aromatic when I tested it before it was used to make mini sandwiches...

Anyway, I wish to thank Elissa for havi
ng chosen that great dessert and making me try something new. A recipe that delighted us very much!

Petits Fours Picnik-Collage 2 bis
~ Five Spice Ice Cream Petits Fours ~
The brown butter pound cake recipe is adapted from the October 2009 edition of Gourmet. The vanilla ice cream is from ice cream genius David Lebovitz, adapted from The Perfect Scoop. The chocolate glaze for the petit fours is a larger adapted version of this ganache from Godiva Chocolate.

Preparation time:
Ice cream – 45 min active time, ice cream rests/chills for 1 hour then overnight. Without an ice cream maker, the ice cream chills 2-3 hours and must be stirred every 30 minutes.
Brown Butter Pound Cake – 2 hours (includes cooling time).
Chocolate Glaze – 15 minutes
Meringue – 10 minutes
Assembly of Ice Cream Petit Fours – Ice cream must be frozen ahead of time several hours, then the cake and ice cream freeze overnight. After dipping, the petit fours freeze for one hours.
Assembly of Baked Alaska – Ice cream must be frozen head of time several hours, then the Baked Alaska is frozen 1 hour or up to one day.

Equipment required:
• Small and medium saucepans
• Paring knife
• 2 quart (2 litres) bowl
• Electric mixer
• Whisk
• Spatula
• Sieve
• 9”x9” (23cmx23cm) square baking pan
• 10” (25 cm) skillet
• Cake leveler/serrated knife
• Cooling racks
• Rimmed half sheets
• Teacups
• Plastic wrap
• Piping bags (optional)
• Ice cream maker (optional)
• Cooking blow torch (optional)

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Petits Fours Picnik-Collage 3 bis
FIVE SPICE ICE CREAM

Ingredients For The "Five Spice Ice Cream":
1 Cup (250ml) Whole milk

A pinch of sea salt
3/4 Cup (165g) Sugar
1 Vanilla bean, split lengthwise OR 2 teaspoons (10ml) pure vanilla extract
2 Cups (500ml) Heavy (approx 35% butterfat) cream
5 Large egg yolks
1 Tsp Pure vanilla extract
2 1/4 Tsps Chinese 5 spices
3 Tbs Dark rum


Method For The "Five Spice Ice Cream":
1. Heat the milk, salt, and sugar in a medium saucepan until the liquid steams. Scrape out the seeds of the vanilla bean with a paring knife and add to the milk, along with the bean pod. Cover, remove from heat, and let infuse for an hour. (If you do not have a vanilla bean, simply heat the milk, salt, and sugar in a medium saucepan until the liquid steams, then let cool to room temperature.).
2. Set up an ice bath by placing a 2-quart (2 litre) bowl inside a large bowl partially filled with water and ice. Put a strainer on top of the smaller bowl and pour in the cream.
3. In another bowl, lightly beat the egg yolks together. Reheat the milk in the medi
um saucepan until warmed, and then gradually pour ¼ cup warmed milk into the yolks, constantly whisking to keep the eggs from scrambling. Once the yolks are warmed, scrape the yolk and milk mixture back into the saucepan of warmed milk and cook over low heat. Stir constantly and scrape the bottom with a spatula until the mixture thickens into a custard which thinly coats the back of the spatula.
4. Strain the custard into the heavy cream and stir the mixture until cooled. Add the vanilla extract (1 teaspoon [5ml] if you are using a vanilla bean; 3 teaspoons [15ml] if you are not using a vanilla bean), the 5 spice, the rum and refrigerate until thoroughly chilled, preferably overnight.
5. Remove the vanilla bean and freeze in an ice cream maker. If you don’t have an ice cream maker, you can make it without a machine (see instructions from David Lebovitz).


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Petits Fours Picnik-Collage 5 bis
BROWN BUTTER POUND CAKE

Ingredients For the "Brown Butter Pound Cake
":
19 Tbs (9.5 oz/275g) Unsalted butter

2 Cups (200g) Sifted cake flour (not self-rising; sift before measuring/see “Note” section for cake flour substitution)
1 Tsp (5g) Baking powder
1/2 Tsp (3g) Sea salt
1/2 Cup (110g) Packed light brown sugar
1/3 Cup (75g) Granulated sugar
4 Large eggs
1/2 Tsp Pure vanilla extract

Method For the "Brown Butter Pound Cake":
1. Preheat the oven to 325°F/160°C and put a rack in the center. Butter and flour a 9”x9” (23cmx23cm) square pan.
2. Place the butter in a 10” (25cm) skillet over medium heat. Brown the butter until the milk solids are a dark chocolate brown and the butter smells nutty. (Don’t take your eyes off the butter in case it burns.) Pour into a shallow bowl and chill in the freezer until just congealed,
15-30 minutes.
3. Whisk together cake flour, baking powder, and salt.
4. Beat the brown butter, light brown sugar, and granulated sugar in an electric mixer until light and fluffy, about 2 minutes. Beat in the eggs one at a time, mixing well, and then the vanilla extract.
5. Stir in the flour mixture at low speed unt
il just combined.
6. Scrape the batter into the greased and floured 9”x9” (23cmx23cm) square pan. Smooth the top with a rubber spatula and rap the pan o
n the counter. Bake until golden brown on top and when a toothpick inserted into the center comes out clean, about 25 minutes.
7. Cool in the pan 10 minutes. Run a knife along the edge and invert right-side-up onto a cooling rack to cool completely.

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Petits Fours Picnik-Collage 1 bis
CHOCOLATE GLAZE

Ingredients For The "Chocolate Glaze":
9 Oz (250g) Dark chocolate, finely chopped

1 Cup (250ml) Heavy (approx 35% butterfat) cream
1 1/2 Tbs (32g) Light corn syrup, Golden syrup, or agave nectar
2 Tsp (10ml) Pure vanilla extract (I omitted it)

Method
For The "Chocolate Glaze":
1. Stir the heavy cream and light corn syrup in a small saucepan over medium heat until it comes to a boil. Remove from heat and add the dark chocolate.
2. Let sit 30 seconds, then stir to completely melt the chocolate. Stir in the vanilla a
nd let cool until tepid before glazing the petit fours.

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

HOW TO ASSEMBLE

Instructions:
1. Line a 9”x9” (23cmx23cm) pan with plastic wrap, so that no sides of the pan are exposed and so there is some extra plastic wrap hanging off the sides. Spread 1 ¾ to 2 cups (450ml to 500ml) ice cream into the pan. Cover with more plastic wrap and freeze several hours.
2. Once the brown butter pound cake has completely cooled, level the top with a cake leveler or a serrated knife. Then split the cake in half hori
zontally to form two thin layers.
3. Unwrap the frozen ice cream. Flip out onto one of the layers of cake and top with the second layer of cake. Wrap well in plastic wrap and return to the freezer overnight.
4. Make the chocolate glaze (see above.).
5. While the glaze cools, trim ¾” (2cm) off each side of the ice cream cake to leave a per
fectly square 7.5” (19cm) ice cream cake. Cut the cake into twenty five petit fours, each 1.5”x1.5” (4cmx4cm).

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Petits Fours Picnik-Collage 4 bisNOTES

• While there is not a great deal of active time, this recipe cannot be easily completed in a day because of freezing time. Make the ice cream first, then the pound cake, then the glaze/meringue as stated in the assembly instructions.
• The pound cake calls for cake flour. You can make 1 cup of cake flour by placing 2 tablespoons of corn starch in a 1 cup measure, and filling to the top with all purpose flour.
• The ice cream can be flavored however you want by infusing the cream, stirring in extracts or mix ins, or folding in purees, sauces, etc.
• For the petit fours, you can also use your own recipe for fondant, poured fondant, royal icing, or marzipan. I recommend the chocolate glaze because it freezes well and balances the sweetness of the ice cream, but it does limit the scope of your decorations.

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~


Etant donné la longueur du texte original, je n'ai malheureusement pas pu faire une traduction française de ce billet et je m'en excuse auprès de tous mes amis lecteurs et blogueurs francophones!

C'est pourquoi je vous suggère de vous rendre sur le blog mentionné ci-dessous. Vous y trouverez cette recette en version française.

Chez Isa de "Les Gourmandises d'Isa" (Canada)
Chez Vibi de "La Casserole Carrée" (Canada)

Petits Fours Picnik-Collage 6 bis
 

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